Kỳ Bí dinh thự vua mèo giữa lòng cao nguyên – Một thời lộng hành của “Vua Mèo” Hoàng Yến TChao đã qua đi nhưng dấu ấn cai trị của cha con họ Hoàng thì vẫn còn đó với dinh thự sừng sững và và tráng lệ. Nhiều câu chuyện kỳ bí xung quanh việc xây dựng của dinh thự này vẫn được những những bậc cao niên ở Bắc Hà kể lại như những giai thoại.

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Sau thời gian dài trị vì và bóc lột cha con “Vua Mèo” đã tích lũy được một số lượng tài sản lớn cùng với sự hỗ trợ của thực dân Pháp, ông đã cho xây một dinh thự bề thế giữa lòng cao nguyên để thể hiện quyền uy và sự giàu có của mình.

Để xây dinh thự, thổ ty Hoàng Yến TChao và con trai là Hoàng A Tưởng đã chuẩn bị rất kỹ lưỡng. Đầu tiên ông cho mời thầy địa lý giỏi người Trung Quốc sang chọn thế đất và vị trí tốt nhất trong vùng. Địa điểm được chọn theo thuyết phong thủy trên một quả đồi rộng hướng đông nam. Phía sau và hai bên phải trái có núi rất đẹp. Phía trước có suối và núi “mẹ bồng con”. Địa hình tổng thể có “Sơn thủy hữu tình” đẹp, hợp với cảnh quan khí hậu châu á.

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Công trình bắt đầu được khởi công vào năm 1914 đến mãi năm 1921 mới hoàn thành. Vật liệu để làm nên công trình được Hoàng Yến TChao chuẩn bị rất kỳ công. Người ta kể rằng, xi măng sắt thép được Pháp hỗ trợ chở bằng máy bay từ dưới xuôi lên. Còn gạch ngói được họ cha con Hoàng cho sản xuất tại chỗ bằng đất sét trong lòng các dãy núi bởi những thợ thủ công giỏi Trung Quốc. Công trình được làm rất tỷ mỉ từ khâu chọn đất đến việc nung trong lò, những người thợ phải làm từng viên gạch một và phải làm ngày đêm để hoàn thành công trình sớm.

Nhân công là những thợ xây giỏi nhất lấy trong các nhà tù, các bản làng và dưới xuôi lên.Tuy không biết thực hư thế nào nhưng người ta đồn rằng, sau 7 năm xây dựng, đến ngày khánh thành, toàn bộ “cúp” thợ xây hầm, người cầm bản vẽ và thi công đã mất tích. Người ta cho rằng, Hoàng Yến TChao đã giết chết họ để giữ bí mật cho hầm nhà.

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Ngoài việc xây dựng dinh thự để thể hiện quyền uy, công trình nhà họ Hoàng còn mang tính cách tân theo kiểu bền chắc của Pháp, cổ kính của Trung Quốc. Dinh thự được xây dựng theo phong cách Á – Âu kết hợp do hai kiến trúc sư người Pháp và Trung Quốc thiết kế và chỉ đạo thi công. Công trình có sự đan xen kết hợp, bố cục hình chữ nhật liên hoàn khép kín. Toàn bộ mái ngói và con sơn gỗ là của Pháp nhưng được kết hợp với kiến trúc tâm linh của Trung Quốc qua các hình rồng phượng và tứ linh. Nhìn tổng thể, dinh thự họ Hoàng rất hài hòa, vòm trên cùng của ngôi nhà chính có đắp nổi hai cành nguyệt quế, giữa có rồng hình mặt nguyệt.

Toàn Dinh thự có 36 phòng chính, để vào dinh thự phải bước lên mấy bậc thang từ hai bên lại. Dưới hai bên cầu thang là hai gian phụ, hai gian này thường dùng để để dụng cụ như quốc xẻng khi người dân đi làm về. Những già làng ở Bắc Hà kể, ngày ấy chiều chiều ông Hoàng Yến TChao cũng thường ngồi ở trước cửa gần gian nhà này, mỗi khi người dân đi làm về thì thường bôi bùn vào lưng ông ấy. Đây là một tục lệ với ý nghĩa coi như để lấp kho thóc cho đầy và cầu cho mùa màng tốt tươi.

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Đi qua cầu thang là tới phòng chờ, sau đó mới bước vào khoảng sân rộng thường được dùng để hành lễ và tổ chức múa hát vui chơi hoặc phơi tiền. Đối diện là khu nhà chính hai tầng, diện tích 420m2, mỗi tầng đều có 3 gian, 1 phòng chính ở giữa và 2 phòng phụ hai bên. Gian giữa tầng một dùng để làm nơi hội họp, điều hành bộ máy cai trị. Gian giữa tầng hai có đặt bệ thờ bề thế. Trước khu nhà chính có đắp nổi hai câu đối bằng chữ hán với nội dung “Mùa xuân vĩnh hằng – Dòng họ hiển vinh” thể hiện ước muốn của Hoàng Yến TChao khi cho xây dựng dinh thự.

Hai bên tả – hữu là hai dãy nhà ngang có bố cục và kiến trúc giống nhau. Mỗi dãy đều hai tầng nhưng thấp hơn nhà chính, mỗi tầng có ba gian với tổng diện tích 300m2, sử dụng làm phòng khách, phòng ngủ cho các bà vợ của ông Hoàng Yến TChao, 2 phòng cho vợ của Hoàng A Tưởng và phòng cho các vị cố vấn.

Tiếp giáp với 2 dãy nhà ngang còn có 2 dãy nhà phụ gồm 2 tầng nhưng kiến trúc đơn giản hơn để Hoàng Yến TChao dùng làm nhà kho đựng vật phẩm và của cải. Một gian ông dùng cho lính phu ở lại, một gian ông để cho những người làm thường trực trong nhà ông ở. Những người được ở là những người làm ở xa hoặc vợ chồng bỏ nhau mà muốn vào làm luôn cho ông thì ở lại trong những gian này nhưng có điều ông chỉ cho ở và nuôi ăn chứ không được trả công. Một gian dùng để nhốt tù binh như những ai trái lệnh ông hoặc trộm cắp…thì cũng sẽ bị nhốt trong khu này. Tổng diện tích khu này là 160m2.

Hai gian còn lại của dãy nhà phụ được dùng làm nhà bếp. Bếp bên trái là những người chuyên nấu ăn cho gia đình ông và các quan. Bếp bên phải là của bà cả chuyên nấu cho người làm, người ở. Đối với việc ăn uống thì ông chao không quan trọng bữa cơm gia đình hay lễ nghi lắm, cứ ai đi làm về đói là vào bếp sẽ có người đưa cơm cho ăn. Ngay cả trong gia đình của ông cũng thế, đói lúc nào là ăn lúc đấy.

Xung quanh các khu nhà ông Hoàng Yến TChao cho xây tường bao kiên cố gồm 3 cổng, 1 cổng chính và 2 cổng phụ trổ nhiều lỗ châu mai, có đường đi trên thành và cho lính gác đi tuần xung quanh. Tổng diện tích lên tới 10.000m2. Sở dĩ ông cho xây tường bao kiên cố như vậy là do thời ông còn ở có cả người từ bên Trung Quốc sang làm thuê, có lẽ chúng thấy được sự giàu có của gia đình ông nên thi thoảng lại có những cuộc nổi loạn của bọn thổ dân Trung Quốc sang bắn phá cướp bóc tài sản của nhà ông TChao.

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Chưa hết, phía sau nhà còn có một hầm thoát hiểm kiên cố và bí mật. Ông TChao cho xây dựng hầm này để phòng lúc chiến tranh và bạo động. Đi qua hầm thoát hiểm thì sẽ ra nhà dân và mở ra một lối đi khác và có thể thoát thân.

Nhờ sự xây dựng kỹ lưỡng, mà đến nay dinh thự vẫn còn gần như nguyên vẹn, vẫn đừng sừng sững giữa đất trời cao nguyên. Hiện nay dinh thự được Sở du lịch tỉnh Lào Cai lưu giữ lại làm điểm thăm quan du lịch và coi như một dấu ấn lịch sự của vùng Bắc Hà. Vì dinh thự đã cũ kỹ và rêu phong nên hiện nay người ta đã sơn một lớp sơn vàng theo như nguyên bản của nó.

Ngoài ra lớp tường bao hơn 10.000 m2 cũng không còn nữa, các phòng bị giột nát nhưng chưa được tu sửa để đảm bảo an toàn cho khách tham quan. Những người quản lý dinh thự ở đây cũng nhiều lần đề xuất tái hiện lại toàn bộ cảnh quan và cuộc sống của chủ dinh thự để khách thăm quan nhưng cũng đang chờ đợi ý kiến của cơ quan ban ngành.

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